Chemical peels are a form of exfoliation. What is exfoliation?
Exfoliation:
- Increases cell turnover
- Decreases fine lines
- Lightens & brightens skin
- Decongests pores
- Makes surface of skin softer & smoother
- Makes pores appear smaller
- Helps to increase collagen production
- Enzymes
- Acid Peels
- Chirally Correct Peels
Enzymes are gentle and effective for every skin type. Enzymes are derived from different fruits (pineapple, pumpkin, papaya, etc). Enzymes do not damage living skin tissue on the surface. Enzymes digest the desmosomes (the cells that hold skin together), thus releasing any hold on dead skin cells, causing them to slough off the surface. The results are less irritation to the skin surface, but yet reveal a soft, smooth, brightened appearance to the skin surface.
Acid Peels are just that. They peel off top layers of skin. The depth depends on the percentage used and length of time left on the skin. There are different acids that are better for different skin types. The most popular are Lactic and Glycolic. Salicylic can also be used, but can have more 'bite', a stinging sensation. Lactic acid is gentle, it hydrates, brightens and increases collagen. Glycolic penetrates faster, isn't as hydrating, but because the molecules are smaller, it will penetrate faster, giving a faster result. If used in excess, it can induce a higher inflammatory response, so use with caution! Salicylic will also lighten, brighten and smooth, but also has 'bite'. Salicylic is often thought to be an acne product, but is also an effective peel in the right percentages.
Chirally Correct peels work differently. These do not cause any inflammatory response and do not strip off the top layers of skin. These penetrate in to the skin, with minimal discomfort and work from the inside out. They increase the action under the skin, which in turn causes surface cells to exfoliate off faster, revealing softer, smoother, brightened skin.
Why peel? As we age, our rate of cell turnover slows down. This can lead to a build up of dead skin cells on the surface, resulting in dull, dry, flaky skin. Aging also slows down collagen production. We are born with 80% collagen. The 1st year after menopause, we lose 30% of collagen, and then lose 2% every year after! Collagen is what keeps our skin plump! Without it, you see sagging and wrinkles. Since peels help our bodies boost production of new collagen, as well as removing dull, dead skin from the surface, peels are a great anti-aging procedure! And because peels remove the surface of the skin, they will help remove surface sun damage, leaving skin brightened and more even-toned.
How often can you peel? Depending on the depth and type, peels can be done anywhere from every 2 weeks to every 3 months. Anything over 30% is considered medical grade and best left to the dermatologist or medical aesthetician with advanced education. 30% and under can be done by your aesthetician in a salon or spa setting. Chirally correct peels can be done every 2 weeks safely with no downtime. A 30% lactic acid peel will not leave most people red and visibly peeling. Lactic acid and Chirally correct are wonderful options for anti-aging as they are the least irritating, and also increase hydration!
At home peels, should you? I've seen peels as high as 25%+ on drugstore shelves and I'm just not comfortable with people using these at home. If you are untrained in peeling, and unsure of what you should be feeling/seeing on your skin, then you risk injury and damage to your skin. Over peeling can actually accelerate the aging process. Peels are best left to the pros!
Still not sure which is best for you? Schedule a consult with your aesthetician. He or she can analyze your skin and determine exactly what your skin needs!
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