Skin Care for Colder Weather

As the temps drop, you may need to tweak your skin care routine.  Cooler temps and drier air can dry out your skin, cause senstivities, and possibly even redness.  So what do you need to do? 

• If you have normally dry skin anyway, colder weather can make it worse.  If you are using a gel based foaming cleanser, switch to a creamy cleanser, which will leave your skin more hydrated immediately after cleansing.  DO NOT skip cleansing.  This is a very important step of any skin care routine.  Consider an oil based cleanser!
• Use tepid water to cleanse.  Hot water may feel good, but can strip your skin of it's lipid barrer, leaving it vulerable to drying and redness. 
• Use a hydrating serum containing hyaluronic acid.   HA can hold 1000 times it's weight in water, which can significantly increase your hydration. 
• Use a heavier moisturizer, especially at night.  Your skin loses most of it's moisture as you sleep.  Using a heavier, more occlusive moisturiser helps hold that mositure in.
• Consider a special pillowcase.  There are some available that actually help your skin retain it's own natural moisture.  

• If you have oily skin, you will still need to tweak a few things.  If your skin feels dry and tight after cleansing, consider using a more  calming cleanser.  If you are using an acne cleanser twice a day, you may need to back off to only once daily. 
• You definitely need to hydrate your skin.  Look for an oil free mositurizer and use it nightly. 

• If you are prone to sensitivity, look for products that are calming, soothing and hydrating.  You will need to use a very gentle cleanser, and pat your skin dry, never rub! 
• Rinse with cool or tepid water. Never steaming hot!
• Use an occlusive moisturizer to protect your skin while your lipid barrier heals itself.
• Cover skin if temps are harsh or there is alot of wind.  These will increase redness and sensitivity.

Above all else do not forget your sunscreen!  This is still an important daily MUST! 

What about exfoliation in winter?  Do you need it? 

• Yes, you can still exfoliate, but make sure you are protecting that new skin with moisture and SPF.  If you feel more sensitive in colder weather, and are prone to redness and dryness, reduce exfoliation to once a month. 

What are the best hydrating ingredients to look for?

• For exfoliation - Lactic acid is hydrating and non-irritating to most.
• For serums - look for Hyaluronic acid.  As discussed above, this will definitely help your skin hold on to it's own moisture.
• For moisturizers - if your skin is dry, steer clear of 'oil free'.  Your skin needs the oil in heavier moisturizer, especially this time of year! 

Questions on all this?  Schedule a consult with your skin care specialist. 

Do You Need a Toner?

Do you remember the days of harsh astringents for your skin?  Do you know why they made these harsh  toners back then?  It was because soap was causing the pH of our skin to go from acidic to alkaline.  The toners of the 80s helped return our skin to the proper pH after cleansing. 

Today's cleansers are pH balanced to your skin.  Your skin has a natural acidic pH of 2.0-3.0.  When you use regular soap, your skin will feel dry and tight.  This is because soap is alkaline.  Always use a pH balanced cleanser made specifically for your face and you won't get that dry/tight feeling after  cleansing. 

Today's toners are really hydrating mists.  They are great for helping serums and moisturizers penetrate, for hydrating and refreshing your skin throughout the day.   Some contain anti-oxidants, which help fight the free radicals our skin is assaulted with every day.  Spritz an anti-oxidant mist on your skin immediately after cleansing.  While still moist, apply your serum and moisturizer with SPF.  Anti-oxidants also help with UV damage, so doing this in the morning is the best time. 

**Photo courtesy of ASCP**

Others are made with hydrating ingredients and can  be used morning, night and all throughout the day.  Spritz anytime you feel you need some hydration.  Take with you on a plane trip to keep your skin moist in the dry cabin air.  (Remember to pour some in a 3 oz spray bottle for flying!) Spritz your face if you need an afternoon pick-me-up to get through the rest of your day! 

There are still astringent toners out there.  There are some for acne & anti-aging that have active ingredients such as salicylic acid (acne) and glycolic acid (anti-aging).  These should only be used as directed, as they will be too harsh for your skin to use repeatedly throughout the day.  They have exfoliation properties, and over exfoliation is NEVER a good thing!  If you are using a treatment toner, follow your estheticians instructions for use. 

Gone are the days of swiping harsh ingredients on our skin to restore pH balance.  Using the right cleanser changes the way the toners of today work.  So spritz away and stay hydrated! 

Masks - How and Why?

So you are wondering about all those masks, whether on the shelves for home use, or in treatments.  What do they do?  Are they just luxury or do they deliver results? 

**Photo courtesy of ASCP**

Masks come in a few different forms:

• Pre-mixed, just spread on
• Powders that must be mixed with water
• Setting masks that set up/dry
• Peel off masks

The purpose of a mask is to deliver ingredients into the skin, or draw impurities from the skin.  Since they are left on for 10-20 minutes, they have time to perform their function, if used correctly.

To deliver ingredients, choose a mask for your skin type and main concern.  If it's aging, choose a mask with vitamin C, hyaluronic acid, collagen, etc.  Start with clean skin, then apply an anti-aging serum under the mask, as the mask will help 'push' or penetrate the serum into the skin for better results.  Follow the instructions on the mask you choose for optimum results.  When removed, your skin may still have some residue, rinse but do not wash your skin to remove.  Your skin should have a smooth, soft, plumped, hydrated look and feel after this type of mask.  Finish with your moisturizer and repeat once or twice a week for optimal results.

**Photo courtesy ASCP** 

To draw impurities out of the skin, choose a clay mask.  This is good for oily, acneic, congested skin prone to breakouts and blackheads.   To use, cleanse skin, and apply a thin layer of clay mask to skin.  Let dry for at least 10 minutes (check instructions on individual masks).  Clay will draw impurities to the surface of pores, clearing blackheads and help to draw bacteria out of breakouts.  Clay also helps control oil production in skin, to reduce that shiny, oily feel.  Since clay can be drying, use once a week only on areas prone to blackheads, breakouts and excess oil production (usually the T-zone area).  Rinse with water, again, do not cleanse to remove, and follow up with an oil free moisturizer. 

Masks that must be mixed can be tricky to achieve the proper consistency.  Follow instructions, and apply/remove as noted above depending on the purpose of the mask. 

Peel off masks can be harmful if used improperly, I do not recommend them for home use.  If you do use one, follow instructions and if you notice any irritation from the peeling process, call me or another esthetician for instructions on how to treat skin. 

Masks in treatments are used in both ways above, depending on skin type and the treatment.  The serums applied under an ingredient delivering mask in a treatment will be a professional strength one, which will have greater amounts of active ingredients for faster results.  Masks in treatments are usually left on longer then one will do at home as well, so for this reason, monthly professional treatments are advised. 

Know your skin, know what you want to achieve for your skin and choose your mask carefully.  Then apply, close your eyes, relax and take some 'me' time. 

Basic Skin Care - What Should You Do?

Ok so you're not into elaborate skin care routines like I am...not everyone can be nuts about skin.  :)  But we should all take care of our skin.  So what are the basic steps everyone needs to do to keep their skin healthy?  It's pretty simple really. 

**Photo courtesy of ASCP**

Step 1. Cleanse - AM and PM

 

Cleansing your skin is important to remove dirt, makeup, pollution, sweat, etc from your skin.  It is especially important before you go to bed.  Going to bed with makeup on your skin can clog pores, leading to breakouts.  There are many varieties of cleansers, with different functions (Acne, Anti-aging, Calming.)  Choose one for your skin type/issues.  But make sure you use a cleanser or bar formulated for use on your face.  This is important to keep your facial skin in balance and feeling good.

Step 2.  SPF Protection - AM

 

Protecting your skin from the UV rays of the sun is the most important thing you can do to prevent skin cancer and premature aging.  You need at least SPF 15, but preferrably SPF 30 every day to adequately protect your skin.  Sun damage is cummulative.  Driving 30 minutes to work can cause damage that adds up over the years to pigmentation, wrinkles, sagging, and possibly skin cancer.  Such a simple step to prevent all that. 

Step 3 - Moisturizer at night - PM

 

Your skin loses most of it's moisture while you are sleeping.  It's important to keep your skin properly hydrated for optimum health.  Hydrated skin also looks plumper and younger, smoothing out fine lines.  Choose one for your skin  type (oil free if oily, antiaging, or calming) and apply immediately after cleansing every night. 

These simple steps are easy, don't take much time, but will go a long way to keeping your skin healthy and younger looking.   If you want to add more advanced skin care to your routine, you can look for serums, masks, eye creams and exfoliators.   If you add a serum, apply under moisturizer.  Since the molecules in serums are smaller, they will penetrate directly into skin.  Apply eye cream along the orbital bone around eyes - never on lids - under moisturizer.  Use a mask for your skin type once a week.  Exfoliation can be done once or twice a week, no more than that.  Over exfoliation can lead to premature aging, something we all want to prevent. 

If you aren't sure what you need beyond the basics, then scheduling a FREE consult to go over your skin type and what products would work best for you would be a great start! 

Sunburn! Oh no, now what?

So you thought you had it covered, but missed a few spots, didn't reapply or simply ignored the advice to wear sunscreen...and you look like this!  Help is on the way!

First, get out of the sun pronto! For relief, you can apply cool compresses  to reduce heat and inflammation.  Apply cooling aloe gel to sooth and hydrate skin.  Schedule a facial ASAP with a licensed esthetician, who can do the following:

• Cleanse skin with a calming, hydrating cleanser.
• Use a GENTLE enzyme to exfoliate the damaged skin off the surface with no irritation
• Use massage techniques to help soothing, hydrating serums penetrate deep into skin to reduce inflammation and promote healing
• Vitamin C serum helps protect skin and reverse pigmentation
• Hydrate with a soothing moisturizer with SPF

Your skin will look immediately better, will not be irritated, and will feel cooler and soothed!  This could also help reduce future peeling.  Check out Jodi Braun at JS Medspa on Facebook for more information on this treatment! 

Sun damage.  UV rays damage skin by breaking down collagen and elastin, causing wrinkles and sagging.  UV rays also ramp up the production of melanin, the substance that produces the 'tan' color.  The melanin is trying to protect the nucleus of the cell from damage.  The more melanin, the more tan, and also the more damage!  Uneven spots of melanin overproduction will eventually make their way to the surface of the skin in the form of brown spots.

Can sun damage be reversed?  Absolutely!  Sun damage happens deep in our skin and some of it may not work it's way to the surface for years.  A lot of the damage we do to our skin won't surface until during or after menopause.  But there are steps you can take to keep this damage from ever coming to the surface as well as reduce visible damage!

 

• Use a Vitamin C serum twice daily immediately after cleansing.  Serums have smaller molecules and penetrate faster and deeper.  Vitamin C lightens and brightens damage already showing on the surface.  It also can help speed up the skin's natural repair system, thus repairing the underlying damage before it can surface.
• Use Vitamin A in a night cream.  Vitamin A is the powerhouse of anti-aging.  It speeds up cell turnover, which will help your skin exfoliate surface damage hyperpigmentation (freckles or brown spots).  It also increases collagen production, helping keep skin firm and smooth, reducing wrinkles  brought about by sun damage. 
• Hydroquinone is found in alot of 'lightening' creams and can be effective at reversing sun damage, but should be used with caution.  Hydroquinone works by stopping the melanin production in the cell, which naturally will stop any brown spots from surfacing.  The problem is, it can be irritating and can cause 'white' spots of hypopigmentation.  Discontinuing use will not fix that issue, as once the melanin production is turned off, it will not start again.  The products I use do not use this ingredient, but you may see it on shelves, at other spas, and even in some stores.  Proceed with caution!
• Regular facials will help with all of this!  Regular professional strength exfoliation will  remove some surface damage. Professional strength serums massaged deeply into skin will go to work immediately to 'attack' below the surface damage and being the repair process.  Regular hydration in the form of masks helps keep skin soft and supple. Microcurrent treatments will increase collagen and elastin production, thus reducing wrinkles.
• Regular daily use (365 days a year) of SPF 30 is essential for reducing sun damage.  All of the above will be a waste of time if you do not remove the trigger (UV rays) by protecting your skin daily! 

 

Follow the above advice and you can stop the sun damage.  Remember, what you do to your skin in your 20s may not surface until your 40s or 50s!  Keep your skin beautiful for your whole life!

Sunscreen - What Kind? How Much? What Strength?

So by now you know you need daily sun protection, right?  But which one? What ingredients?  What SPF?  I read a great article in a Spa industry magazine that answers these questions and I want to share it with you.  I'm not retyping the article, just filling in the blanks to the questions alot of people have about sunscreen. 

 

Ingredients.
The ingredients in a sunscreen determine if it's a physical sunscreen, a chemical sunscreen, or a combination of both.  What's the difference?

• Physical sunscreen reflects the UV rays, blocking them from interacting with your skin.  The ingredients to look for in a physical sunscreen are Zinc Oxide and Titanium Dioxide.  If these are the ONLY 2 active ingredients, then this is a physical only sunscreen. 
• Chemical sunscreens work by absorbing the UV rays.  There are numerous ingredients.  If neither of the above 2 physical ingredients are listed, then it's a chemical sunscreen. 
• Combination sunscreens work with a mix of both physical and chemical, and most sunscreens provide some sort of combination. 

Is one better or safer than the other?  Physical sunscreens are the most stable and provide the best protection.  They are also less likely to sting the eyes or cause any reactions to the skin.  Some may be concerned with chemical sunscreens penetrating the skin.  The FDA has found these are safe and effective, and the Skin Cancer Foundation found no evidence these sunscreen ingredients damage cells.  UV rays, however, DO damage cells. 

What about SPF? How much do you really need?  Dermatologists recommend nothing less than SPF 15.  SPF 30 is the standard most professionals recommend for optimum protection.  SPF 15 blocks 93% of UV rays, SPF 30 blocks 97%.  Over SPF 30, you may gain a .5% more, but don't get a false sense of security.  SPF 100 is not protecting you 3X more than SPF 30.  You still need to reapply every 2 hours (or every 90 minutes if swimming or sweating). 

Is SPF really waterproof?  No.  It can be water resistant and new FDA guidelines now specify they can't say 'waterproof' on the bottle.  You must reapply for the highest protection. 

What does Broad Spectrum mean?  This means it protects against both UVA and UVB rays.  UVB rays are the ones that cause burning.  UVA rays are those that cause premature aging.  You need protection against both.  Both can cause skin cancer. 

Is tanning safe if you don't burn?  No.  No no no!  Never.  A tan is a sign of UV damage.  Your skin produces melanin to protect the cells from the UV rays.  The melanin is what causes the tan  color.  The more melanin, the more tan, the more damage to the cells.  And the artifical UV rays from tanning beds cause DNA damage.  Researchers from the National Cancer Institute blame tanning in tanning  beds for the increase in melanoma (the most dangerous type of skin cancer). 

 

Bottom line?  Wear SPF 30 every day on any exposed skin.  Reapply every 2 hours when out in the sun or water.  Find shade, wear sunglasses and a hat.  And see a dermatologist once a year to get any suspicious spots checked. 

Don't believe the sun causes damage?  Look at the picture below.  This man was a truck driver for years. Look at the difference in his face from the left side to the right side.  The left was exposed to UV rays through the side window during all his driving hours.  Dramatic, isn't it?  Going to buy sunscreen now?  I hope so! 

**Source - Practicing Safe Sun - American Spa Magazine - June 2013**

Chemical Peels - What You Need to Know!

Chemical peels, they are everywhere!  In salons, spas and now on drugstore shelves!  Which ones are best for you?  What is the difference between Lactic, Glycolic, Salicylic?  What about percentages? 

Chemical peels are a form of exfoliation.  What is exfoliation? 

Exfoliation:

• Increases cell turnover
• Decreases fine lines
• Lightens & brightens skin
• Decongests pores
• Makes surface of skin softer & smoother
• Makes pores appear smaller
• Helps to increase collagen production

Peels are a form of chemical exfoliation.  This means there is no scrubbing involved.  The chemicals  do the work.  There are a few different types of peels:

• Enzymes
• Acid Peels
• Chirally Correct Peels

Let's talk a little bit about each.

Enzymes are gentle and effective for every skin type.  Enzymes are derived from different fruits (pineapple, pumpkin, papaya, etc).  Enzymes do not damage living skin tissue on the surface. Enzymes digest the desmosomes (the cells that hold skin together), thus releasing any hold on dead skin cells, causing them to slough off the surface.  The results are less irritation to the skin surface, but yet reveal a soft, smooth, brightened appearance to the skin surface. 

Acid Peels are just that. They peel off top layers of skin.  The depth depends on the percentage used and length of time left on the skin.  There are different acids that are better for different skin types.  The most popular are Lactic and Glycolic.  Salicylic can also be used, but can have more 'bite', a stinging sensation.  Lactic acid is gentle, it hydrates, brightens and increases collagen.  Glycolic penetrates faster, isn't as hydrating, but because the molecules are smaller, it will penetrate faster, giving a faster result.  If used in excess, it can induce a higher inflammatory response, so use with caution!  Salicylic will also lighten, brighten and smooth, but also has 'bite'.  Salicylic is often thought to be an acne product, but is also an effective peel in the right percentages. 

Chirally Correct peels work differently.  These do not cause any inflammatory response and do not strip off the top layers of skin.  These penetrate in to the skin, with minimal discomfort and work from the inside out.  They increase the action under the skin, which in turn causes surface cells to exfoliate off faster, revealing softer, smoother, brightened skin. 

Why peel?  As we age, our rate of cell turnover slows down.  This can lead to a build up of dead skin cells on the surface, resulting in dull, dry, flaky skin.  Aging also slows down collagen production.  We are born with 80% collagen.  The 1st year after menopause, we lose 30% of collagen, and then lose 2% every year after!  Collagen is what keeps our skin plump!  Without it, you see sagging and wrinkles.  Since peels help our bodies boost production of new collagen, as well as removing dull, dead skin from the surface, peels are a great anti-aging procedure!  And because peels remove the surface of the skin, they will help remove surface sun damage, leaving skin brightened and more even-toned.

How often can you peel?  Depending on the depth and type, peels can  be done anywhere from every 2 weeks to every 3 months.  Anything over 30% is considered medical grade and best left to the dermatologist or medical aesthetician with advanced education.  30% and under can be done by your aesthetician in a salon or spa setting.  Chirally correct peels can be done every 2 weeks safely with no downtime.  A 30% lactic acid peel will not leave most people red and visibly peeling.  Lactic acid and Chirally correct are wonderful options for anti-aging as they are the least irritating, and also increase hydration!  

At home peels, should you?  I've seen peels as high as 25%+ on drugstore shelves and I'm just not comfortable with people using these at home.  If you are untrained in peeling, and unsure of what you should be feeling/seeing on your skin, then you risk injury and damage to your skin.  Over peeling can actually accelerate the aging process.   Peels are best left to the pros! 

Still not sure which is best for you?  Schedule a consult with your aesthetician. He or she can analyze your skin and determine exactly what your skin needs!