Sunscreen - What Kind? How Much? What Strength?

So by now you know you need daily sun protection, right?  But which one? What ingredients?  What SPF?  I read a great article in a Spa industry magazine that answers these questions and I want to share it with you.  I'm not retyping the article, just filling in the blanks to the questions alot of people have about sunscreen. 

 

Ingredients.
The ingredients in a sunscreen determine if it's a physical sunscreen, a chemical sunscreen, or a combination of both.  What's the difference?

• Physical sunscreen reflects the UV rays, blocking them from interacting with your skin.  The ingredients to look for in a physical sunscreen are Zinc Oxide and Titanium Dioxide.  If these are the ONLY 2 active ingredients, then this is a physical only sunscreen. 
• Chemical sunscreens work by absorbing the UV rays.  There are numerous ingredients.  If neither of the above 2 physical ingredients are listed, then it's a chemical sunscreen. 
• Combination sunscreens work with a mix of both physical and chemical, and most sunscreens provide some sort of combination. 

Is one better or safer than the other?  Physical sunscreens are the most stable and provide the best protection.  They are also less likely to sting the eyes or cause any reactions to the skin.  Some may be concerned with chemical sunscreens penetrating the skin.  The FDA has found these are safe and effective, and the Skin Cancer Foundation found no evidence these sunscreen ingredients damage cells.  UV rays, however, DO damage cells. 

What about SPF? How much do you really need?  Dermatologists recommend nothing less than SPF 15.  SPF 30 is the standard most professionals recommend for optimum protection.  SPF 15 blocks 93% of UV rays, SPF 30 blocks 97%.  Over SPF 30, you may gain a .5% more, but don't get a false sense of security.  SPF 100 is not protecting you 3X more than SPF 30.  You still need to reapply every 2 hours (or every 90 minutes if swimming or sweating). 

Is SPF really waterproof?  No.  It can be water resistant and new FDA guidelines now specify they can't say 'waterproof' on the bottle.  You must reapply for the highest protection. 

What does Broad Spectrum mean?  This means it protects against both UVA and UVB rays.  UVB rays are the ones that cause burning.  UVA rays are those that cause premature aging.  You need protection against both.  Both can cause skin cancer. 

Is tanning safe if you don't burn?  No.  No no no!  Never.  A tan is a sign of UV damage.  Your skin produces melanin to protect the cells from the UV rays.  The melanin is what causes the tan  color.  The more melanin, the more tan, the more damage to the cells.  And the artifical UV rays from tanning beds cause DNA damage.  Researchers from the National Cancer Institute blame tanning in tanning  beds for the increase in melanoma (the most dangerous type of skin cancer). 

 

Bottom line?  Wear SPF 30 every day on any exposed skin.  Reapply every 2 hours when out in the sun or water.  Find shade, wear sunglasses and a hat.  And see a dermatologist once a year to get any suspicious spots checked. 

Don't believe the sun causes damage?  Look at the picture below.  This man was a truck driver for years. Look at the difference in his face from the left side to the right side.  The left was exposed to UV rays through the side window during all his driving hours.  Dramatic, isn't it?  Going to buy sunscreen now?  I hope so! 

**Source - Practicing Safe Sun - American Spa Magazine - June 2013**

Chemical Peels - What You Need to Know!

Chemical peels, they are everywhere!  In salons, spas and now on drugstore shelves!  Which ones are best for you?  What is the difference between Lactic, Glycolic, Salicylic?  What about percentages? 

Chemical peels are a form of exfoliation.  What is exfoliation? 

Exfoliation:

• Increases cell turnover
• Decreases fine lines
• Lightens & brightens skin
• Decongests pores
• Makes surface of skin softer & smoother
• Makes pores appear smaller
• Helps to increase collagen production

Peels are a form of chemical exfoliation.  This means there is no scrubbing involved.  The chemicals  do the work.  There are a few different types of peels:

• Enzymes
• Acid Peels
• Chirally Correct Peels

Let's talk a little bit about each.

Enzymes are gentle and effective for every skin type.  Enzymes are derived from different fruits (pineapple, pumpkin, papaya, etc).  Enzymes do not damage living skin tissue on the surface. Enzymes digest the desmosomes (the cells that hold skin together), thus releasing any hold on dead skin cells, causing them to slough off the surface.  The results are less irritation to the skin surface, but yet reveal a soft, smooth, brightened appearance to the skin surface. 

Acid Peels are just that. They peel off top layers of skin.  The depth depends on the percentage used and length of time left on the skin.  There are different acids that are better for different skin types.  The most popular are Lactic and Glycolic.  Salicylic can also be used, but can have more 'bite', a stinging sensation.  Lactic acid is gentle, it hydrates, brightens and increases collagen.  Glycolic penetrates faster, isn't as hydrating, but because the molecules are smaller, it will penetrate faster, giving a faster result.  If used in excess, it can induce a higher inflammatory response, so use with caution!  Salicylic will also lighten, brighten and smooth, but also has 'bite'.  Salicylic is often thought to be an acne product, but is also an effective peel in the right percentages. 

Chirally Correct peels work differently.  These do not cause any inflammatory response and do not strip off the top layers of skin.  These penetrate in to the skin, with minimal discomfort and work from the inside out.  They increase the action under the skin, which in turn causes surface cells to exfoliate off faster, revealing softer, smoother, brightened skin. 

Why peel?  As we age, our rate of cell turnover slows down.  This can lead to a build up of dead skin cells on the surface, resulting in dull, dry, flaky skin.  Aging also slows down collagen production.  We are born with 80% collagen.  The 1st year after menopause, we lose 30% of collagen, and then lose 2% every year after!  Collagen is what keeps our skin plump!  Without it, you see sagging and wrinkles.  Since peels help our bodies boost production of new collagen, as well as removing dull, dead skin from the surface, peels are a great anti-aging procedure!  And because peels remove the surface of the skin, they will help remove surface sun damage, leaving skin brightened and more even-toned.

How often can you peel?  Depending on the depth and type, peels can  be done anywhere from every 2 weeks to every 3 months.  Anything over 30% is considered medical grade and best left to the dermatologist or medical aesthetician with advanced education.  30% and under can be done by your aesthetician in a salon or spa setting.  Chirally correct peels can be done every 2 weeks safely with no downtime.  A 30% lactic acid peel will not leave most people red and visibly peeling.  Lactic acid and Chirally correct are wonderful options for anti-aging as they are the least irritating, and also increase hydration!  

At home peels, should you?  I've seen peels as high as 25%+ on drugstore shelves and I'm just not comfortable with people using these at home.  If you are untrained in peeling, and unsure of what you should be feeling/seeing on your skin, then you risk injury and damage to your skin.  Over peeling can actually accelerate the aging process.   Peels are best left to the pros! 

Still not sure which is best for you?  Schedule a consult with your aesthetician. He or she can analyze your skin and determine exactly what your skin needs!

Waxing, Shaving, Tweezing Oh My!

It's that time of year, the time we all want to be hair free to show off our great summer skin!  Let's explore all the different ways to remove unwanted hair, and you can figure out what works best for you! 

 

Tweezing: This is literally tweezing out one hair at a time.  Works basically only for eyebrows and strays not removed by other methods. 

Facts of Tweezing:

• Removes hair by root
• Easier to control what hair will be removed.
• Easy to do at home or on the go
• Minimal products/equipment necessary
• Time consuming
• Not a good option for larger areas  

Shaving:  We all know what shaving involves.  We've been doing it since we were 12 right?

Facts of Shaving:

• Removes hair at skin surface only
• Grows back quicker
• Easy to do at home, in shower
• Minimal products/equipment
• Regrowth can be stubbly
• Requires daily/every other daily maintenance
• Can cause red bumps/ingrown hairs

Waxing: Waxing can be done at home or in salon.  Waxing removes alot of hair at one time.

**Photo courtesy of ASCP**

Facts of Waxing:

• Quick result for larger areas
• Area stays smooth for 4-6 weeks
• The more often you wax, the less hair grows back over time
• Can be slightly painful
• If done at home, must follow directions to the letter!  Improper waxing technique can result in bruising, skin lifting, bleeding, ingrown hairs.
• Best done in salon/spa by a licensed professional.
• If done at home, various equipment/products needed
• Must let hair grow to 1/4 inch to get area waxed again (4-6 weeks)

All the above methods can be done on all areas of unwanted hair (although tweezing should really be reserved for the brow area). 

How do you choose?  You just have to decide what are your goals.  Waxing is great for the summer months for legs, underarms, bikini and for men, backs & chests.  Results last longer, daily shaving not required! 

How do you maintain the areas after hair removal? 

• Wash with gentle cleanser the day following hair removal. 
• Days 2 & beyond, use a lotion with a gentle exfoliator (such as salicylic acid) to keep skin cells from clogging the follicle, leading to painful bumps and ingrown hairs. 
• If you are getting waxed, DO NOT SHAVE!  It is important that you let the hair grow back to at least 1/4 inch by your next wax appointment for safe hair removal.  If hair is too short, wax will not grab the hair and can damage the skin. 

Still unsure?  Talk to your skin care professional, try a waxing on a small area to experience it before deciding to go all out and wax everything! 

Have a great, hair-free summer! 

Facial Oils - Oil Based Cleansers

Oil for your skin?  Even oily skin?  YES and YES!  Here's why these are not just hype. 

Oil based cleansers are great for a first cleansing.  Oil attacts oil, so these cleansers clean your skin of excess oil and makeup.   They will also help dislodge blackheads and congestion in the skin.  This can lead to less breakouts.  After cleasning with an oil, use your regular cleanser to remove any residue and cleanse your skin.   The double cleanse method will leave your skin feeling cleaner than it has ever felt.  

If you experience blackheads and congestion below the skin (bumps), using an oil cleanser is one of the best things to help aleviate the issue.  Use twice daily along with your regular cleanser.  And no picking or squeezing!  Leave that to the pros! 

The only time you want to limit oil cleansers is for drier skin.  Since it removes oil from the skin, it can leave skin without excess (or even enough) oil dry and tight.  Use once a day rather than twice if you still prefer the double cleanse method. 

Oils as serums and moisturizers are also very good for skin.  Oils help active ingredients in anti-aging creams penetrate with less irritation.  They are also calming and add hydration, since certain active ingredients can be drying to the skin.  

As skin matures, we produce less oils naturally, so these oils can help replace what nature takes away.  Adding moisture and retaining moisture is great for skin plumping, reducing the look of fine lines and wrinkles. 

There are alot of facial oils and oil based cleansers on the market.  Do your homework, read the ingredients and what the oil is meant to do and choose the one best for your skin type and needs. 

Tanning - Just Say No

You've heard that tanning is bad for you, but do you do it anyway?  Do you think a tan looks healthy?  It may look good in the early stages, but a tan is still UV damage to your skin and eventually will cause pre-mature aging and could lead to DNA changes that cause skin cancer. 

When UV rays enter your skin, it triggers melanin production to protect your skin from the damaging rays.  The melanin is what produces the tan you see.  But while this is happening, the UV rays are still damaging the cells which can lead to permanant changes in your skin. 

UV damage causes:

• Brown spots
• Wrinkles

Alot of the damage we do to your skin doesn't show up on the surface for years after we've done the damage.  There are 'skin scanners' that can show you the damage  below your skin.  If no action is taken, this damage will surface as brown spots years later. 

 

How can you stop this?  There are a few things you can do:

• Wear sunscreen EVERY day.  SPF 30.  This will stop continued damage. 
• If you tan in a tanning bed, stop immediately.  It may take time for you to get used to being 'pale' but remember, pale is healthy.  Tan is not. 
• Use of a Vitamin C serum can slow the damage  below the surface from reaching the surface.  The combination of Vitamin C and SPF can significantly reduce brown spots on the surface of your skin for years to come.
• Use of a Retinol cream can increase collagen production (which UV rays break down) to plump wrinkles.  SPF is mandatory if you use Retinol, as it  can be a photo-senstivitity agent. 
• Regular exfoliation can help remove surface damage so skin appears more youthful, even-toned and smoother. 

Please remember, none of the above will do any good if you continue to 'lay out' in the sun, or tan in a tanning bed.  There is no such thing as a healthy tan (unless it's from a self tanner/spray tan).  I have a Tshirt I love that says..."Pasty by Choice...Pale is beautiful".  Love the skin color you were born with, and you will be rewarded by looking younger your whole life. 

Skin Type and Foundation

Confused by all the different brands and types of makeup foundations out there?  Should you use powder, liquid, tinted moisturizer, BB cream?  What the heck is BB cream anyway?  Let's take a closer look.

Not all makeup is created equal.  There are oil free formulas, thick hydrating formulas, powders, lightweight formulas, and treatment foundations.  The list goes on and on.  Finding the one that works for your skin can be trial and error if you aren't sure what to look for. 

Foundations:

• Liquid foundations blend easily into skin, but may feel heavier than other forumlas.
• Powder foundations are lighter to the touch, feel lightweight, but can be harder to blend
• Tinted moisturizers are simply moisturizers with some color added to them. These offer light coverage and won't cover blemishes.  These are great for warmer months when you don't want to put both separately on your skin.
• BB Creams are multi-tasking formulas that combine moisture with tint, along with other ingredients to address even skin tone and some anti-aging concerns.  Offering heavier coverage than a tinted moisturizer, these can be layered to cover blemishes.
• Treatment foundations have an ingredient to counteract a certain skin problem.  Some for acne, most for aging concerns, including pigmentation (brown spots) and wrinkles.

Oily Skin:

• If your skin is oily, you want an OIL FREE formula, always.  This won't contribute to oil production, will likely have an ingredient that helps control oil and shine.  It will feel lightweight on your skin.  There are also oil free BB creams and tinted moisturers.  These are multi-tasking products!
• Powder foundations are great for oily skin!  They won't feel greasy or heavy and can help control oil and provide a matte finish for shine free skin all day.

Normal Skin:

• Women with normal skin can use any formula as long as it feels good on their skin.  Find what works well and looks best and stick with it!

Combination Skin:

• If there is excess oil in the T-Zone, use a formula geared for oily skin.  You can use a tinted moisturizer or BB cream, just choose an oil free one.

Dry Skin:

• If skin is dry and/or dehydrated, steer clear of powders!  These will sit on top and will make skin feel even drier.  Look for formulas that are NOT oil free, as your skin needs the excess hydration provided by thicker formulas. If you want lightweight looking coverage, opt for a BB cream or tinted moisturezer. 

Aging Skin:

• If skin is more mature, powders are not a good choice, as the powder will settle into fine lines.  You will want a more 'dewey' finish so skin looks more youthful.  My favorite product for aging skin is BB Cream.  It doesn't cover your skin, but gives a dewey youthful glow and has ingredients to combat aging and help even skin tone. 

Some people change formulas with the seasons.  Winter can be more drying on skin and you may want a heavier, more hydrating formula, while in the summer you want a more lightweight formula.  Using the above guide can help you pick the right formula all your long, for your skin type!

Exfoliation

When you hear the word exfoliation, what does it mean to you?  Do you think of  scrubs?  Microdermabrasion?  Acid peels?  All of these are a type of exfoliation. 

Exfoliation defined:  Exfoliation is simply ridding the surface of your skin of dead skin cells.  We all turn over new skin, but at differing rates.  The rate varies based on age and lifestyle.  Someone who is 20 years old gets 'new' skin on the surface every 15-20 days.  Someone who is 45 gets 'new' skin every 30-45 days.  This is a big difference in terms of how skin looks and feels. 

Skin that isn't exfoliating at a fast rate will build up dead skin cells on the surface.  This can lead to skin that feels rough, looks dull and won't allow for serum and moisturizer penetration.  Removing these cells from skin's surface gives a more youthful, hydrated look to any skin.

How do we do this?  There are 2 types of exfoliation:

• Chemical
• Physical

Chemical consists of enzymes and peels.  These work without physical stimulation, they simply use their ingredients to break down dead skin cells to help them slough off.

•  Enzymes are gentle and work simply by devouring the cells that hold the dead skin cells together.  They have no action on live cells on the skin's surface.  There is little irritation, no down time, no visible peeling. 
• Peels work in a few different ways.  Depending on the strength and type of peel, they will remove the top layer(s) of skin.  How deep a peel depends on the strength, type of acid used, and length of time left on skin.  Depending on the depth, there can be redness, peeling and down-time. 

Physical exfoliants work by using beads in scrub form to physically remove dead skin cells.  Beware of scrubs using broken nuts and seeds as these can cause tiny tears in the skin leading to damage and pre-mature aging, or at worst, infection. 

There is such a thing as over-exfoliating your skin.  You should only exfoliate at home once a week.  Professional exfoliation can be done every 2 -4 weeks by a licensed professional. 

Questions about this?  Schedule a FREE consult/face mapping with me and learn more! 
Follow my skin care page on Facebook at Skin Care by Jodi at Elements to Wellness.  Follow me on Twitter at @skincarebyjodi1. 

Which Ingredients Work for YOUR Skin Type?

Are you always seeing hundreds or thousands of skin care products promising to fix every possible skin issue and have no idea what works and what doesn't?  Do you know your skin type, and which ingredients are best for YOUR skin?  Let's break it all down.

Skin Types. 
There are 5 skin types:

• Normal
• Combination
• Dry
• Oily
• Sensitive

Still not sure which one describes you? 

• Normal - You have no issues with breakouts, oil production, dryness, redness, sensitivity.  Your skin behaves and needs minimal maintenance.
• Combination - You tend to be shiny in your 'T' zone (forehead, nose, chin), experience a few breakouts and feel dry or normal in your cheek area.
• Dry - Your skin lacks oil production and often feels tight & flaky, can have a tendency to redness and be senstitized. 
• Oily - Your skin always looks shiny, feels greasy and you tend to experience breakouts. 
• Sensitive - Your skin feels tight, itchy, burny, and has a tendency to redness.  Alot of products can cause stinging and further redness. 

So now you have an idea what skin type you have, let's find out what products/ingredients work best for you.

Normal:

• Your skin needs minimal maintenance and basic products. Pick a cleanser specific for facial skin and without any reference to acne or oil control.  Your skin doesn't need it.  You need a basic moisturizer with SPF for day and if you are over 30, a good anti-aging night cream with a retinol ingredient will be good to keep skin looking and feeling young. 

Combination:

• Your skin needs a gel based cleanser that foams to help combat oil production and give you a feeling of clean skin.  On extra oily areas, a clay mask once a week will do wonders to reduce oil and draw out impurities and blackheads.  Look for an oil free moisturizer with SPF for day and a slightly more hydrating one for night.  Anti-aging products are fine for your skin as well if you are in that age group.

Dry:

• Your skin needs hydration and humectrants to keep any oil you do produce in your skin.  Start with a creamy cleanser to avoid stripping your skin of oils.  A hydrating mask once a week will really help your skin retain moisture and look radiant.  Avoid oil free moisturizers, your skin needs heavier creams to maintain hydration.  You can use anti-aging creams with retinol as well, but build up to them, start using every other night to avoid drying skin too much. 

Oily:

• Your skin produces too much oil which can contribute to breakouts.  The key here is to reduce oil production, but not stop it completely.  Going overboard with oil-combating products will cause your skin to over-compensate, resulting in even MORE oil production.  A clay  based cleanser will greatly reduce your oil production and help your skin feel more balanced.  It can also double as a mask once a week, simply apply to dry skin and rinse off after 10 minutes.  Your skin still needs SPF and moisturizers.  Make sure you use OIL FREE, which will hydrate your skin, but will not clog your pores.  This could take some getting used to, as it may feel like too much, but trust me, it will balance your skin, reducing oil production.  Oily skin can still get dehydrated, which is why a moisturizer is essential. For breakouts, using 2% salicylic acid in a cleanser and 5% benzoyl peroxide will clear skin in 3 months, when used as directed. 

Sensitive:

• This one can be tricky.  You want to look for calming products (most have this right in the name).  My recommendation is getting checked by a Dermatologist first, to rule out Roseca or any other ailment contributing to sensitivity.  Look for creamy cleansers.  Avoid anti-aging products until sensitivity is controlled.  A product that promotes repair of the skin's natural barrier is best to protect it from outside elements while it heals itself.  

All skin types have different needs.  If you are still confused, schedule a FREE consultation for a skin analysis and I can help you determine what will work best for you! 

SPF - Not Just for Summer

You need to wear SPF every day.  365 days a year.  Not just in the summer, or when it's sunny out.  Here's why.

• UV rays travel through clouds, fog, haze, & windows to reach your skin.  Weather is irrelavant.  UV rays will damage unprotected skin even when it's raining.
• UV rays are present in daylight hours every day of the year. 
• UV damage is cummulative.  That means the UV rays that come through your windshield on your morning commute will continue to contribute to sun damage if your skin isn't protected.

Sun Protection Factor should be renamed Daylight Protection Factor.  The sun doesn't have to be shining bright to damage your skin.  Always protect your skin, including the backs of your hands with at least an SPF 15, preferrably SPF30 every morning before you head out. 

UV rays contribute to premature aging, wrinkles, hyperpigmentation (brown spots) and skin cancer. 

Tanning is one of the worst things you can do to your skin.  A tan is UV damage.  Even if you never burn, you are still damaging your skin cells and possibly the DNA.  

Love the skin color you were born with! 

Skin Treatments - What do YOU Expect?

What has been your experience with skin treatments or facials?  Good, bad, indifferent?  None?  Do you know what you should expect?  Let me break it down for you.

A facial takes approximately 60 minutes and should consist of the following basic steps:

• Cleansing
• Skin Analysis
• Exfoliation
• Extractions (if necessary)
• Massage
• Mask
• Moisturer and SPF

Here is a breakdown of how I do my facials.  I feel relaxation and great skin care are not mutually exclusive.

I start with a gentle precleansing using an oil based cleanser to break down oils and makeup on your skin so they are easily removed. This is followed by a second cleanse with a cleanser geared for your skin type, removed with a warm steamed towel. 

Cleansing is followed by exfoliation.  There are 2 types of exfoliation:

• Physical
• Chemical

Physical uses beads in a scrub form to gently but effectively scrub dead skin cells from the surface of the skin. 
Chemical uses enzymes or acids to chemically breakdown the top layer of skin, resulting in smoother, fresher surface skin. 
Enzymes are the gentlest form of chemical exfoliation, and good for even senstitive skin. 
Exfoliations are normally completed under steam. This helps open the pores to prep the skin for extractions of any blackheads. 

Skin analysis and extractions follow exfoliation.  Extractions can be done with fingers or an extraction tool.  You need to let your esthetician know if you feel discomfort during extractions.  We should be firm, but gentle, and never force anything.  If you are uncomfortable, you may request this step be skipped.

A soothing facial massage follows extractions, to gently help any serums applied penetrate and promote relaxation. 

A mask will be applied based on your skin's needs.  While the mask is on, you will receive a shoulder, hand and arm massage, further promoting the relaxation phase of your treatment.  The mask will be gently removed with warm steamed towels.  The proper serums, eye creams, moisturizers and SPF will then be applied specific to your skin's needs to finish up this wonderful treatment. 

A facial should never be uncomfortable, and I don't believe in leaving clients alone in a treatment room with products on the skin.  You should feel pampered and relaxed when your treatment is complete. 

Why Skin Care is not a Luxury

Everyone gets their hair done right?  This isn't a luxury, it's a necessity to look and feel good.  Well, so is skin care.  And I'll tell you why. 

When you have newly colored hair and a great hair cut, your whole outlook can change.  You look good, so you feel good.  But if you are covering up bad skin with bangs, or excess concealer, then a good skin care routine can make you feel even better!  Skin care is not a luxury, but a necessity. 

Skin is your body's largest organ and you need to take good care of it so it can take good care of you and your body!  Committing yourself to regular treatments and a good homecare routine is an investment in YOU! And you will see a return on that investment in mere weeks, as long as you are consistant. 

What can a good skin care routine do for you?

• Improve overall skin health
• Clear breakouts
• Reduce fine lines and wrinkles
• Even skintone
• Reduce sun damage and brown spots
• Reduce sensitivity and redness

What do you need to 'invest' to achieve those results?

• An hour once a month for a professional treatment
• 5-10 minutes twice a day to cleanse your skin and apply the proper products at home to maintain professional results

What steps are included in these investments?

• A facial treatment consists of cleansing, professional exfoliation, blackhead extraction, massage and mask.  The immediate results will be hydration and smoother skin.  The long term results will be even skin tone, reduction in fine lines and wrinkles, reduction of breakouts.
• At home, cleansing your skin should take 60 seconds.  Work a facial cleanser (NEVER SOAP) into your skin with water and rinse. 
• Follow cleansing with a serum and moisturizer selected specifically for your specific needs and wants for your skin.  In the morning, ALWAYS wear an SPF on your skin!

That's it!  Simple, not very time consuming and beneficial in the long run!  So pick up the phone and call your skin care professional today and get started!