Masks - How and Why?

So you are wondering about all those masks, whether on the shelves for home use, or in treatments.  What do they do?  Are they just luxury or do they deliver results? 

**Photo courtesy of ASCP**

Masks come in a few different forms:

• Pre-mixed, just spread on
• Powders that must be mixed with water
• Setting masks that set up/dry
• Peel off masks

The purpose of a mask is to deliver ingredients into the skin, or draw impurities from the skin.  Since they are left on for 10-20 minutes, they have time to perform their function, if used correctly.

To deliver ingredients, choose a mask for your skin type and main concern.  If it's aging, choose a mask with vitamin C, hyaluronic acid, collagen, etc.  Start with clean skin, then apply an anti-aging serum under the mask, as the mask will help 'push' or penetrate the serum into the skin for better results.  Follow the instructions on the mask you choose for optimum results.  When removed, your skin may still have some residue, rinse but do not wash your skin to remove.  Your skin should have a smooth, soft, plumped, hydrated look and feel after this type of mask.  Finish with your moisturizer and repeat once or twice a week for optimal results.

**Photo courtesy ASCP** 

To draw impurities out of the skin, choose a clay mask.  This is good for oily, acneic, congested skin prone to breakouts and blackheads.   To use, cleanse skin, and apply a thin layer of clay mask to skin.  Let dry for at least 10 minutes (check instructions on individual masks).  Clay will draw impurities to the surface of pores, clearing blackheads and help to draw bacteria out of breakouts.  Clay also helps control oil production in skin, to reduce that shiny, oily feel.  Since clay can be drying, use once a week only on areas prone to blackheads, breakouts and excess oil production (usually the T-zone area).  Rinse with water, again, do not cleanse to remove, and follow up with an oil free moisturizer. 

Masks that must be mixed can be tricky to achieve the proper consistency.  Follow instructions, and apply/remove as noted above depending on the purpose of the mask. 

Peel off masks can be harmful if used improperly, I do not recommend them for home use.  If you do use one, follow instructions and if you notice any irritation from the peeling process, call me or another esthetician for instructions on how to treat skin. 

Masks in treatments are used in both ways above, depending on skin type and the treatment.  The serums applied under an ingredient delivering mask in a treatment will be a professional strength one, which will have greater amounts of active ingredients for faster results.  Masks in treatments are usually left on longer then one will do at home as well, so for this reason, monthly professional treatments are advised. 

Know your skin, know what you want to achieve for your skin and choose your mask carefully.  Then apply, close your eyes, relax and take some 'me' time. 

Basic Skin Care - What Should You Do?

Ok so you're not into elaborate skin care routines like I am...not everyone can be nuts about skin.  :)  But we should all take care of our skin.  So what are the basic steps everyone needs to do to keep their skin healthy?  It's pretty simple really. 

**Photo courtesy of ASCP**

Step 1. Cleanse - AM and PM

 

Cleansing your skin is important to remove dirt, makeup, pollution, sweat, etc from your skin.  It is especially important before you go to bed.  Going to bed with makeup on your skin can clog pores, leading to breakouts.  There are many varieties of cleansers, with different functions (Acne, Anti-aging, Calming.)  Choose one for your skin type/issues.  But make sure you use a cleanser or bar formulated for use on your face.  This is important to keep your facial skin in balance and feeling good.

Step 2.  SPF Protection - AM

 

Protecting your skin from the UV rays of the sun is the most important thing you can do to prevent skin cancer and premature aging.  You need at least SPF 15, but preferrably SPF 30 every day to adequately protect your skin.  Sun damage is cummulative.  Driving 30 minutes to work can cause damage that adds up over the years to pigmentation, wrinkles, sagging, and possibly skin cancer.  Such a simple step to prevent all that. 

Step 3 - Moisturizer at night - PM

 

Your skin loses most of it's moisture while you are sleeping.  It's important to keep your skin properly hydrated for optimum health.  Hydrated skin also looks plumper and younger, smoothing out fine lines.  Choose one for your skin  type (oil free if oily, antiaging, or calming) and apply immediately after cleansing every night. 

These simple steps are easy, don't take much time, but will go a long way to keeping your skin healthy and younger looking.   If you want to add more advanced skin care to your routine, you can look for serums, masks, eye creams and exfoliators.   If you add a serum, apply under moisturizer.  Since the molecules in serums are smaller, they will penetrate directly into skin.  Apply eye cream along the orbital bone around eyes - never on lids - under moisturizer.  Use a mask for your skin type once a week.  Exfoliation can be done once or twice a week, no more than that.  Over exfoliation can lead to premature aging, something we all want to prevent. 

If you aren't sure what you need beyond the basics, then scheduling a FREE consult to go over your skin type and what products would work best for you would be a great start! 

Sunburn! Oh no, now what?

So you thought you had it covered, but missed a few spots, didn't reapply or simply ignored the advice to wear sunscreen...and you look like this!  Help is on the way!

First, get out of the sun pronto! For relief, you can apply cool compresses  to reduce heat and inflammation.  Apply cooling aloe gel to sooth and hydrate skin.  Schedule a facial ASAP with a licensed esthetician, who can do the following:

• Cleanse skin with a calming, hydrating cleanser.
• Use a GENTLE enzyme to exfoliate the damaged skin off the surface with no irritation
• Use massage techniques to help soothing, hydrating serums penetrate deep into skin to reduce inflammation and promote healing
• Vitamin C serum helps protect skin and reverse pigmentation
• Hydrate with a soothing moisturizer with SPF

Your skin will look immediately better, will not be irritated, and will feel cooler and soothed!  This could also help reduce future peeling.  Check out Jodi Braun at JS Medspa on Facebook for more information on this treatment! 

Sun damage.  UV rays damage skin by breaking down collagen and elastin, causing wrinkles and sagging.  UV rays also ramp up the production of melanin, the substance that produces the 'tan' color.  The melanin is trying to protect the nucleus of the cell from damage.  The more melanin, the more tan, and also the more damage!  Uneven spots of melanin overproduction will eventually make their way to the surface of the skin in the form of brown spots.

Can sun damage be reversed?  Absolutely!  Sun damage happens deep in our skin and some of it may not work it's way to the surface for years.  A lot of the damage we do to our skin won't surface until during or after menopause.  But there are steps you can take to keep this damage from ever coming to the surface as well as reduce visible damage!

 

• Use a Vitamin C serum twice daily immediately after cleansing.  Serums have smaller molecules and penetrate faster and deeper.  Vitamin C lightens and brightens damage already showing on the surface.  It also can help speed up the skin's natural repair system, thus repairing the underlying damage before it can surface.
• Use Vitamin A in a night cream.  Vitamin A is the powerhouse of anti-aging.  It speeds up cell turnover, which will help your skin exfoliate surface damage hyperpigmentation (freckles or brown spots).  It also increases collagen production, helping keep skin firm and smooth, reducing wrinkles  brought about by sun damage. 
• Hydroquinone is found in alot of 'lightening' creams and can be effective at reversing sun damage, but should be used with caution.  Hydroquinone works by stopping the melanin production in the cell, which naturally will stop any brown spots from surfacing.  The problem is, it can be irritating and can cause 'white' spots of hypopigmentation.  Discontinuing use will not fix that issue, as once the melanin production is turned off, it will not start again.  The products I use do not use this ingredient, but you may see it on shelves, at other spas, and even in some stores.  Proceed with caution!
• Regular facials will help with all of this!  Regular professional strength exfoliation will  remove some surface damage. Professional strength serums massaged deeply into skin will go to work immediately to 'attack' below the surface damage and being the repair process.  Regular hydration in the form of masks helps keep skin soft and supple. Microcurrent treatments will increase collagen and elastin production, thus reducing wrinkles.
• Regular daily use (365 days a year) of SPF 30 is essential for reducing sun damage.  All of the above will be a waste of time if you do not remove the trigger (UV rays) by protecting your skin daily! 

 

Follow the above advice and you can stop the sun damage.  Remember, what you do to your skin in your 20s may not surface until your 40s or 50s!  Keep your skin beautiful for your whole life!